I arrived in Bali on Sunday. I think I muttered ‘Wow’ together with a few more colourful words. So beautiful and quite a lot hotter it seems than Yogya. I’m temporarily staying in a small hotel (big enough for only 12 guests) in Sanur which is the east side of Bali (opposite side to Kuta). Sanur is apparently much less touristy than Kuta…yikes, not sure I want to see Kuta. On my first night as i was trying to drift off to sleep, I could vaguely hear in the distance, Men at Work’s “Down Under” sung by drunken yobbo’s at a nearby karaoke…very different to Yogya’s Islamic call to prayer….maybe this song symbolises Australia’s own version of the prayer call??? Australians love worshipping beer, that’s for sure. Anyway, i’m sure this will only be a temporary nuisance, as I can then avoid these areas once I get my accommodation sorted. I’m sure this won’t be the last time I write about Australians in Bali on this blog! I won’t get on my soap box just yet.
Today is the Balinese “day of silence’ called Nyepi. It is a Hindu celebration, but all non-Hindu residents observe the day of silence as well, out of respect, and so do the tourists. It’s a day reserved for self-reflection, silence, fasting and mediation. The only people on the streets are the ‘pecalang’, the traditional security men who patrol the streets to ensure the tradition is being observed. Exceptions are granted for emergency vehicles for people with life-threatening illnesses or women about to give birth! Bali’s airport and ports all close down for 24 hours – no flights or boats in or out.
Yesterday, I wandered the streets looking at the many colourful and extravagant papier mache and bamboo monsters (called ogoh-ogoh) which are really quite demonic but extremely creative. All over Bali, each village creates one which they parade around the village once the sun goes down.
An ogoh-ogoh getting last minute touches before the parade
No two ogoh-ogoh are ever alike
This ogoh-ogoh with his Bintang in his hand, his beer gut and dick hanging out his pants, was certainly the most frightening that I saw. He’s wearing the star-spangled banner for shorts, but the message is pretty obvious.
Drunken sleazy tourist ogoh-ogoh
Around 8pm, the streets are lined with people and it’s like one big giant exorcism. The ogoh-ogoh symbolise the evil spirits and demons that they want to remove from their lives. The young boys from the village lift the ogoh-ogoh on their shoulders and dance in the streets….these monsters really start coming to life to the sounds of the gamelan (brass musical instrument) and drums. It’s really quite a stunning spectacle and there are literally hundreds of different ogoh-ogoh (and that was just in Sanur) being paraded through the streets.
The young Balinese boys parading their village ogoh-ogoh
The young boys from the village love it
A Balinese boy riding with the ogoh-ogoh
Later that night, all of the ogoh-ogoh are set alight. The following day (today) is Nyepi which is the day of lock down and peace and quiet. It’s been a really beautiful day….for me, spent mostly on the internet in between dips in the pool. The quietness is partly to ensure that the evil spirits think that the island is uninhabited and do not return, and partly as a day of reflection, to start the year anew and revived.
I suppose many Australians do this kind of quiet reflection on New Years Day too, but mainly due to their large hangovers.
A Year in Bali 
Haha! Soap box! Soap box!! Be a proud Australian now. 🙂
Looks like a great day Ange. Great speaking to you earlier.
Love you
xx
Goodness, Ange, I was expecting life as a volunteer abroad to be a tough gig, but a “beautiful day” spent on the internet between dips in the pool is just ridiculously hard going. Best of luck for the rest of the year. Not sure how you’re going to do it.
M x
Hey, I saw you with a beer in hand on Nyepi day! What were you reflecting about?!
Hmm…i suspect not always smooth sailing Michelle, but one can live in hope 🙂
Miss you guys xxx
Hey Ange,
You’ve seen so much already! I haven’t been to Bali, but I hope you enjoy it as much as Yogya.
The papier mache monsters look fantastic in the photos and very well made – great detail.
A really basic recipe for really nice steamed fish:
1 x Banana Leaf
1 x fish (either fillet or whole…)
1 nob Fresh ginger (grated to taste)
1-2 cloves garlic
2 Chillies (chopped)
Zest & juice of half a lime (or Kaffir lime leaves)
Place the fish skin side down on the banana leaf. If using whole fish, score the skin . Season with sea salt and pepper. In mortar & pestle add grated ginger, chopped garlic and chillies. Pound, then add the lime zest & juice (or lime leaves & a touch of oil to make a paste).
Spoon paste over fish (if whole fish, put inside). Wrap in Banana leaf and bake on 180 degrees for approx. 20 min or until fish is opaque (cooked). Serve with steamed veg (asian greens are usually good), or salad.
Really healthy & yum!
You sound like you’re having a great time – keep on enjoying yourself.
Jac
:o)
Awesome Youngie, thanks for the recipe…love it! Will definitely give that a go! Hope all is well with you. Say hi to everyone for me! Cheers, ange